Tasting Menu Review: Ember & Ash — A Modern Hearth
Ember & Ash's latest tasting menu balances rustic fire-driven techniques with delicate finishing. We tasted a ten-course progression that honors local producers and seasonal rigor; here's what worked and what fell short.
Tasting Menu Review: Ember & Ash — A Modern Hearth
Dining at Ember & Ash feels like stepping into a kitchen that reveres flame. The chef's relationship with wood smoke and char is at the core of the restaurant's identity, and the tasting menu is a study in restraint: elements are charred for aroma but balanced with bright acids, fermented notes and careful seasoning.
Atmosphere & Service
The dining room is warm and spare — reclaimed wood, hand-blown glass, and an open pass where guests can glimpse the embers. Service is professional with a friendly edge: waitstaff are knowledgeable about provenance and cooking techniques, guiding guests through the sequence without interrupting conversation. Timings are generous enough that each course has space to land.
The Menu: Highlights
The ten-course menu we experienced included small palate-setters and larger, more contemplative plates. Highlights included:
- Charred Scallop with Brown Butter and Citrus Gel: A perfect marriage of smoky and sweet; the citrus gel cut through the butter, creating brightness.
- Beet Tartare with Smoked Yogurt: Earthy beets finely diced and coated in delightful ash-smoke perfume; the texture was lively thanks to an almond crumble.
- Slow-Roasted Lamb Shoulder with Preserved Lemon: Rich, fork-tender lamb finished with preserved lemon and a scattering of herbs. A textbook use of acid to balance fat.
Techniques & Flavor Direction
Chef Martin's technique is consistent: char for aroma, ferment for complexity, and finish with bright acids. The smoke is rarely aggressive; it’s used as a seasoning rather than a signature. Fermented components (a house miso, a cultured butter, and pickled ramps) provided depth. The kitchen's restraint in salt and seasoning was notable — diners should trust the progression; the lineup builds on contrast rather than sheer intensity.
Room for Improvement
While the menu excels in balance, a few courses skated too close to gentleness. One course of roasted root vegetables felt under-salted, missing an anchor against the rest of the tasting. Additionally, portioning leaned toward the smaller side; several guests (including our table) left wishing for a little more heft on heartier plates.
'Ember & Ash demonstrates that fire is an ingredient: used intelligently, it enhances rather than dominates.' — Our tasting note
Drink Pairing
The wine pairings leaned natural and low-intervention, complementing the menu’s rustic sensibility. Notable was a light, peppery red from a regional producer that paired adeptly with the lamb. The service offered non-alcoholic options that were more thoughtful than most restaurants: house-fermented shrub pairings and a smoked tea that echoed the kitchen's flame with no alcohol.
Value & Verdict
At its price point, Ember & Ash offers a memorable experience for diners who appreciate technique and narrative in a tasting menu. While a couple of minor seasoning and portion issues prevent perfection, the kitchen's command of fire, fermentation and balance make Ember & Ash a worthwhile reservation.
Ratings Snapshot
- Food: 8/10 — adventurous, balanced, occasionally timid
- Service: 9/10 — attentive and informed
- Ambiance: 8/10 — cozy and honest
- Overall: 8.5/10
Who Should Go?
If you favor modern, ingredient-led tasting menus and enjoy the flavor of fire and fermentation, Ember & Ash will delight you. Those seeking bold, high-salt dishes or large portions may find it understated. Book early for chef’s table seating if you want the full pass-side experience.